Automatic: Gets charged by wrist movement, desirable
Mechanical: Wind up clock ~ every 1-1.5 days, more “old-style”
Quartz: More accurate but battery powered, less valuable and less desirable. Would not recommend quartz even if a good brand
Desirable Automatic Watch features: A good movement (Swiss-made ETA movements are the best, then Miyota is a cheaper Japanese substitute for ETA but still great and reliable, then Seagull which are decent but lower quality, then unnamed Chinese movements are bad but super cheap, and Seiko movements vary wildly upon the model). The quality of the finish of the watch is important. Sapphire Crystal glass (more scratch resistant and prettier than mineral). Cases can be made of Stainless Steel or sometimes PVD (black casing, which in my opinion is less versatile fashion-wise and too casual). Make sure the watch isn’t also too high profile (not too thick so it doesn’t bang into things and can fit under dress shirts)
Note: I do not view watches as investments. Why buy a watch if you’re scared of scratching it and its subsequent “loss of value”?
Budget Automatic: ~$100-200
Parnis, Tao, or Alpha are decent cheap chinese brands (but I wouldn’t pay more than $120) ie Parnis all ~$100 but some models are not quality, Popular decent-quality models: Power Reserve (IWC Portuguese homage with Sea-Gull ST2505 movement) [Parniswatch.net], Panerai Radiomir homage [Parniswatch.net]
Amphibia Vostok (Russian) ~$80 from either Smirs (Smirs is cheaper than eBay) or Meranom, or Chistopolcity, if you find one with the new lug width of 22mm (like the sold out Amphibia Ministry), pick up a nice Nato or Zulu from CheapestNatoStraps. Another Russian watch, albeit cheap only if used is Sekonda ~$80 at [eBay]. Their 3017 Pilot watches are beautiful but $400+.
HMT (Indian) – $30-$80 NASL or ADSL models, or Secondarily: Sona, find them on Ebay
Seiko 5 (SNK series) $60-$110 ie SNK809 [Amazon w/ Cloth Strap, Amazon w/ Steel bracelet, eBay], or SNKD97K1 w/ Steel bracelet [Amazon, eBay], or (SNZ) SNZG13 w/ Steel bracelet $125 [Amazon, eBay] (possibly can find at an Ashford sale for $80)
Sea-Gull M187s $120 [Ebay]
Instead of all these brands, I’d either get a $70-$125 Seiko, OR for a more unique/complex design find an automatic Orient for ~$100-140 at [LongIslandWatch Discount Sale or eBay]
Fliegers (WWII pilot watch):
Note: Real pilots wear titanium because it’s lighter! (but in all seriousness, titanium isn’t worth the extra money and is more prone to scratches), also I prefer the A dial as B dial is too “busy” to be classy
Maratec $280 [Maratec's Only Retailer] a little more modern
Laco with Miyota movement $370, sapphire glass, is 100% true to history and definitely quality, you can request the strap without rivets. [Laco A-Dial, Laco B-Dial]. Or to skip the import hassle from Germany: [Amazon]
Check LongIslandWatch Discount Sale for good value Fliegers such as Aristo (great value ETA) $300 (usually $429 on LongIslandWatch), or Lacos
Uhren von Uhr (great value ETA) $310 (newer company) A dial 40mm, A dial 42mm, B dial 40mm, B dial 42mm
Steinhart $455 ETA [A dial 44mm, B dial 44mm, B dial 47mm] (note the titanium ones not listed here are $469 with vintage-yellow font). Go Steinhart for a Flieger w/ ETA, but a substitute is: Archimede ~$500 [ArchimedeWatches].
Submariner Homages / Classic James Bond 007 Style:
Orient Ray or Mako $110 [OrientWatchUSA Ray, OrientWatchUSA Mako] to get them for $110 shop at [Ebay Ray, Ebay Mako] or [LongIslandWatch]
Seiko SKX007 $170 [Amazon SKX007K2] [Ebay]. Get the superb bracelet for this: Super Oyster Evo S bracelet (solid end links) $70 from (email firstname.lastname@example.org) (it fits the SKX007/009, SKXA35/53/55, 7002, 6309-729X), but can instead get the Jubilee bracelet (dressy) or President bracelet (popping/unique). I’m not a fan of the Engineer (or Super Engineer) bracelet, less classy more “tool” watch. Or get a Black Seiko 5 SNZF17 $136 [Amazon, eBay] or Blue Seiko 5 SNZF15 [Amazon, eBay] (I’d get SKX007 over the SNZFs, better quality).
Seiko Classic: $150-$300 off eBay. Either the: 6306 [eBay] or 6309 eBay]. I like the 6309-7040 better than the 6306. Unless you spend bigger bucks for a fully restored and pressure tested one you can’t really trust the watertight integrity. Otherwise you might end up with a “restored” watch that leaks while washing your hands and it’ll cost a lot just to clean up the gaskets (unless you do it yourself). For a reputable seller on eBay, use Loyswatch.
Seiko homage Marine Master / Poor Man’s Marine Master (PMMM): Order both the SKX171 and SKX007 bezel to create this SKX171 w/ SKX007 bezel, shown with President bracelet (SKX171K), ask them to do the bezel swap before shipping, optional: Type S hands (or genuine MM300 hands), Super Oyster Evo S bracelet is the best (better than WJean’s Super Oyster Type 2), MM300 clasp for bracelet, Sapphire Crystal, smaller font bezel insert
Seiko Sumo $560 Great value for the quality, but I don’t like the big lugs [Seiya Japan, eBay]
Squale 20 ATMOS Classic $440 from [GnomonWatches Black, or Vintage Off-black]. I’d remove the date magnifier. It’s slightly smaller than the Steinharts (40mm vs 42mm). Squale is a micro-watchmaker with a solid history from the 1950s.
Steinhart Ocean all ETA movements, $400 [Steinhart Ocean 1 Black] with Ceramic Option but I’d remove the date magnifier (this is a superb homage to the Rolex Deep Sea Sea Dweller 116660), or go a little nontraditional with the flat bezel Steinhart Ocean 44 $440 [SteinhartWatches], or for more sporty color Steinhart Ocean 1 Vintage $400 [SteinhartWatches], or Steinhart OVM for gold vintage military trim $400 [SteinhartWatches] (a superb homage to the Rolex Milsub 5513 as seen in the classic James Bond 007 movies ie Sean Connery)
Ollech & Wajs Diver ETA movement $390 from [Ollechs and Wajs Home - Chronotime or eBay]
Budget Divers (popular non-traditionals):
Seiko Monster $160 [Amazon, eBay]
Seiko Mini/Neo Monster $140 ie SNZF47K1 [Amazon, eBay]
Seiko 5 Sports $125 Black SNZH55 [Amazon, eBay], Blue SNZH53 [Amazon, eBay], Black with Gold Trim SNZH57 [Amazon, eBay], All Black SNZH59 [Amazon, eBay]
Seiko SKX171 [Amazon, eBay]
Citizen Eco Zilla $200 (however this one is quartz, I’d take Seiko over this) [Amazon, eBay]
Bernhardt Binnacle $270 [BernhardtWatches]
Steinhart Vintage GMT $440 [SteinhartWatches]
Mid-level Automatic ~$200-~$600
Android watches (ETA movement only) ~$240 (hard to find at good price) [Ebay]
Tissot PR 516 GL (old world sporty feel) $415 [Ebay] or Tissot Visodate $375 [Amazon, eBay]
Certina DS-1 $500 Certina (hard to find in US) [eBay]
Steinhart Marine $460 [Marine Chronometer II Roman, Marine Chronometer II Arabic, Marine Chronometer, Marine Chronometer Vintage] Only gripe on these is that they might be too thick for a classy watch and too classy for everyday watch
Mido Baroncelli ~$500, highly regarded brand but not well-known, hard to find these at good prices, ie Baroncelli II [AZFineTime] or All Dial [AZFineTime]
Hamilton Khaki Automatic (Khaki Field line or Khaki King line) ~$350 [eBay]
Seiko Spirit (Sarb) $430 SARB033 [Amazon, eBay], or step up looks with $570 SARB021 [Amazon, eBay] or SARB023 [Amazon, eBay]
Steinhart Triton 40 ATM $485 [SteinhartWatches]
Christopher Ward C60 tad expensive @ $535 [Christopher Ward USA]
Vintage Watches: Buran (Russian, made by Poljot ex-employees) good deal depends on the movement and condition $200-$500 [eBay] ie the Buran Sibiria / Siberia [eBay]
High-Level Automatic $600+ (all ETA movements)
Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic $500-$700 I’m not a fan but they’re popular and great value for ETA [Amazon, eBay,]
Seiko Premier with 6R20 or 6R15 movement ~$500-700 on [eBay] (usually these are little too big/busy for me but great value)
Seiko Marine Master MM300 The ultimate diver @ $2300. Try to get slightly used for $1850. The only watch over $1500 that I’d happily recommend. Definitely worth it over the $570 Seiko Sumo. Might be too high profile to fit under dress shirts. [eBay]
Stowa Antea $850 [StowaShop], Stowa Marine Original [StowaShop]
Damasko DA36 $1125 [DamaskoUSA, Damasko DC56 $1750 DamaskoUSA]
Junghans Max Bill Automatic $900 [JunghansWatchesUSA, eBay]
Sinn 556 $770 [SinnWatches]
Oris and Glycine both widely known to be good quality/resale value, but I don’t find their lower-end watches awe-inspiring/classy $800+ (Glycine Stratoforte $1.2k expensive but might be able to find for $600-$800 [Glycine, eBay, Watchuseek for sale]
Mido Multifort $800 [eBay, Amazon BlackDial/GoldTrim/PVD, AZFineTime BlackDial/GoldTrim/PVD, AZFineTime Black Dial/LeatherStrap, AZFineTime Black Dial/Chain], or also Mido Baroncelli Chronograph [AZFineTime Black Dial, eBay]
Longines Hydroconquest superb brand but way too expensive ~$790 [eBay]
Beautiful but overpriced:
Magrette Regattare $545 (beautiful but not great value due to Miyota movement)
Halios (similar to Magrette, beautiful but overpriced for ETA)
MKII (mkiiwatches.com) great but $800+ (and the vantage or kingston are no longer for sale)
Prometheus (also not sure the quality of these) from PrometheusWatch or Watchgecko) (also check the movement, Prometheus tends to be overpriced even with watches that have crappy seagull/sellita movements, Baiji line and CR1 are recommended)
After all of my research, I’ve concluded: get an automatic watch, don’t spend more than $300 on a non-ETA movement watch (unless it’s a Seiko). My personal opinion is only get one or two watches that are versatile (both professional and casual), and don’t spend more than $500 for a watch, unless it is gold (you can find good-condition gold watches for ~$500-$600 on eBay).
For less than $300, my favorite budget watch with a great movement is the diver Seiko SKX007 $170 [SKX007K2] with Super Oyster Evo S bracelet $80 (email email@example.com for it).
For a flieger (more casual than classy with only the usual brown strap), go for a $350-$500 Flieger with ETA Swiss movement, ex: Aristo/Laco at [LongIslandWatchDiscountSale] or a Steinhart $455 [SteinhartWatches] or a Laco Augsberg $370 for its historical significance (albeit it’s only Miyota movement) [Amazon].
For best budget ETA movement diver / submariner (classy), my favorite is the Steinhart Ocean 1 Black $400 [SteinhartWatches] with Ceramic Option, or [Steinhart Ocean 44 $440 SteinhartWatches]. For slightly smaller/classier, get the Squale 20 ATMOS Classic $440 from [GnomonWatches - Black, or GnomonWatches - Vintage Off-black]. If you choose Ocean 1 or a Squale, I like them better to remove the date magnifier (aka the cyclops).
For best budget high quality classiness, Seiko SARB021 at ~$570 on [Amazon or Ebay], or Steinhart Marine ie $480 [Marine Chronometer II Roman]. For ultra-classiness, the Stowa Antea 390 Day-Date black $900 looks beautiful, but again that’s a lot of money for a non-gold watch [StowaShop] so can’t fully recommend it.
Watch Straps/Bracelets: [need to research more alternatives]
Da Luca – highest quality leather (shell cordovan) but expensive $100+
Don’t get: Hadley Roma (doesn’t seem like high quality)
Watches I’m Not Recommending – Jaragar $20-90 bad quality movement/build, Tag Heuer is the worst bang for the buck, Chase Durer, Timex, Breitling bad value, Nixon overpriced and bad quality, Victorinox overpriced, Jean Marcel little overpriced at $800 used $1k+ new, Kienzle quality too convoluted for me to recommend, Dievas watches (vortex in particular) too expensive, Skeleton watch: Richard Mille RM11 homage (can’t find a decent trustworthy quality copy online), Not really into the Uniformwares, Croton, Invicta, Sturhling, Citizen, Accurist (British version of Citizen), just okay Tauchmeister (ex: T0252 $200 Miyota), Ocean7 overpriced & bad customer service & misaligned bezels, Helson good quality submariners but newer company and $600+, G Gerlach ($300 watches, stylish but cheap seagull movement), Rolex subs (ie Rolex Deep Sea Sea Dweller 116660) are small/common/expensive even though they hold their value very well. Lots of Omegas don’t have rotating bezel.
Flieger: IWC and A. Lange & Söhne are the popular uber expensive ones, Wempe and Tourby expensive $1k, Vollmer ($500+), Stowa are too expensive at [~$790] (even though the higher quality finish might be worth it to some people, get a leather strap Laco for half the price or a much classier metal bracelet Steinhart Flieger for slightly cheaper, as Stowa is not worth it as it is slightly overrated and they’re essentially homages with a good brand name but not authentic like Laco, Stowa Models [A dial, A dial with date, A dial no logo, B dial])