Budget Automatics $80-$130
Women’s / Ladies Watches $100-$300
Classically-Styled Divers $150-$500
Non-Traditional Divers $150-$400
Sporty Homage Chronographs $150-$300
Classy Mid-Level Automatics $200-$600
Classy High-Level Automatics $600-$1k
Slightly Overpriced $500-$2k
Conclusion – Personal Recommendations and Thoughts
Watch Buying Guide
Watches Not Recommended and Why
This section is for the lowest priced automatics that are still quality for the low price. ~$80-130
Vostok Amphibia (Russian divers) ~$80 [Smirs, eBay, Meranom, Chistopolcity, Julian Kampmann Poljot24 Russia, Vostok USA]
Sekonda ~$80 [eBay] (Another Russian watch but classy, only cheap if bought used)
HMT (Indian classy ultra-cheap automatic) $30-$80, find them on Ebay, ie Sona, Janata (both better than Pilot)
Seiko 5 SNK series smaller classic size ~38mm $70-$100 ie SNK795 (modern) [black Amazon, white SNK789, blue SNK793] or SNKL [black SNKL45, white SNKL41, blue SNKL43]. For a pilot/flieger style, SNK809K [Amazon] / SNK803 [Amazon]
Seiko military field style: SNZG13 [Amazon, eBay] (get over a Hamilton Khaki King or Khaki Field)
Seiko 5 SNKK (Patek Philippe Nautilus or Audemars Piguet Royal Oak homage): $60 [Silver SNKK41, Silver/Black SNKK47, Silver/Blue SNKK45, Gold SNKK52, Gold/Black SNKK54]
Seiko SUP Series (Cartier Tank homage): Seiko SUP880 Solar $100 [Amazon]
(Rolex Oyster Datejust homage / Rolex Oyster Day-Date homage): Seiko SNXJ Series $160 [Amazon] or Orient Day Date $100 [Amazon, 2], (Rolex Datejust and Day-Date are 36mm, Datejust II and Day-Date II are 41mm, better than the too small 34mm Rolex Air King)
Orient $130-$190 [Amazon All Models], some classy models are: Orient Goldeneye [Amazon White dial, Black dial], Orient Bambino [Amazon], or Orient Symphony [Amazon] (but many people prefer Bambino’s more unique domed crystal)
Women’s / Ladies Watches
Although the other watches (larger sized, sporty-styled) can certainly be worn by women or younger ladies, listed here are smaller-sized, more fashion-styled watches. The Rodina above is also a good choice.
Orient Ladies (many styles) [Amazon]
Seiko 5 Ladies [Amazon] or for Black Unisex SRP267 $200 [Amazon] / SRP371 [Amazon] or Seiko SNK Unisex [Amazon] or Seiko Solar Ladies [Amazon] (examples: Chronograph SSC893 $290 [Amazon], Baguette SUP044 [Amazon], SUT128 [Amazon], SUT015 [Amazon])
Citizen Women’s “Eco-Drive” (solar) [Amazon] ie EW1264-50A Silhouette Two-Tone [Amazon], minimalist – Eco-Drive “Axiom” [1Amazon, 2], Chronograph $200 FB1360-54D [Amazon], Diver EM0030-59A $270 [Amazon]
Flieger Watch (WWII pilot watch) / Aviator Watch:
A Flieger is the classic German WWII pilot watch and is more casual and toolish than classy, especially with its classic riveted brown strap (one can switch it out with a metal bracelet or black leather). Titanium isn’t worth the extra money and is more prone to scratches (although it’s “lighter” for the real pilots). A dial is the more historically common variant (B dial was produced in small quantities), for some the B dial is “too busy” (especially for the smaller Poljot $100-$200 Russian aviators [eBay]
Maratac $290 [CountyComm] a little more modern, Miyota movement
Laco Augsberg or Aachen: miyota $370 (ETAs are $900), sapphire glass, 100% true to history. [Amazon A-Dial Augsberg, B-Dial Aachen] or to order directly from Germany: [Laco A-Dial Augsberg, B-Dial Aachen]
Best: Because of the style’s simplicity you could go budget ie an Orient/Ticino for $150. For more quality, go ETA movement Steinhart $400 [SteinhartWatches] OR Laco for its authentic historical significance (albeit miyota) $370 [Augsberg Amazon, Aachen Amazon B-Dial]. Other ETA: Aristo or Laco ~$400 at [LongIslandWatch Discount], Archimede ~$500 [ArchimedeWatches].
Orient: (not sapphire glass tho) Orient Ray $140 [Amazon] (classic round hour markers), Orient Mako XL (aka Mako II, Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean homage, markered dial / bigger size / worse lume than Mako) $140 [Amazon, Orange bezel (classic Planet Ocean style)], Orient M-Force Beast $400 [Amazon]
Citizen BN0000 (solar eco-drive) $200 [Amazon]
Seiko SNZH Series (Blancpain Fifty Fathoms homage): Seiko SNZH57 $150 (black, gold trim) [Amazon, eBay] with FiftyFive Fathoms dial $35 (50 Fathoms + Seiko 5 = 55), or to go high end get the MKII Stingray II $600 [MKIIWatches] (dressier than the Precista 50B), Other Seiko 5 Sports SNZH series: [eBay, Black SNZH55, Blue SNZH53, PVC All Black SNZH59 (these are also similar to the Breitling SuperOcean, especially if adding a numberless bezel insert)
Seiko SKX007 $170 [Amazon SKX007K2, Ebay] or for more retro squarish hour markers: [Amazon SKX173]. Better quality (ie 7S26 movement) than SNZF17. Upgrade the bracelet with the superb Super Oyster Evo S (solid end links) $70 from (email firstname.lastname@example.org), or the Type 2 from [WJean eBay], or a Snapcode [Amazon].
SKX007 is the newer version of the Seiko icon 6309-7040, which you can still by used $150-$300 [eBay, eBay reputable seller Loyswatch] (better than the 6306, can’t trust integrity of watertightness unless fully restored and pressure tested)
Seiko Poor Man’s Marine Master (PMMM, Seiko MM300 homage): Have email@example.com make it for you: the SKX171 [Amazon] (black date better than SKX007 white date) and add the bezel/insert of the SKX007, Type S hands, either his Marine Master dial (or authentic MM300 Dial), yobokies Super Oyster Evo S bracelet, yobokies Sapphire (ie AR-coated domed)
Squale 20 ATMOS 1545 Classic (200 m) ETA $490 from [GnomonWatches]. It’s slightly smaller than the Steinharts (40mm vs 42mm). Squale is a micro-watchmaker with a solid history from the 1950s (was making cases for other brands such as Tag Heuer, Doxa, Blancpain).
Steinhart Ocean (Rolex homages):
Ocean 1 Black $400 with Ceramic Option (Rolex Submariner 16610 homage, most famous dive watch) [Steinhart]
Ocean 44 $440 (bigger, Rolex Deepsea Sea Dweller 116660 homage, flat bezel) [Steinhart]
Ocean 1 Vintage Red $400 (more sporty color, Rolex 1680 Red homage) [Steinhart]
Ocean One Vintage Red $400 (Rolex Submariner 5513 homage, most famous military-issued dive watch, as seen in the classic James Bond 007 movies) [Steinhart] – more of an homage than Ocean One Vintage Military (OVM)
Ocean One Vintage $470 (Rolex 6200 homage) [Steinhart]
Others: Ocean Two Yellow (IWC Aquatimer homage) [Steinhart], and Aviation (Bell & Ross BR01 homage) [Steinhart]
Non-Traditional Styled Diver Watch:
Seiko Monster: Black Monster $160 [Amazon SRP307 2nd gen, SRP313 “Bloody Tooth”, eBay], (1st gen SKX779 & SKX781 had square hour indices). The original Monsters (particularly Orange Monster [SRP309]) are more popular, but there is also the Seiko 5 Mini / Neo / Baby Monster (similar size but not as rugged looking and crown isn’t screw down) $140 [SRP599, SNZF49, SNZF47, SNZF45]
Borealis (Tudor homages): Tudor Snowflake homages: Sea Hawk 1500m $350 (albeit Seiko auto, Tudor Pelagos homage) [BorealisWatch], Dagaz Ultra-Flake SKX Mod $300 (seiko auto, sapphire) [10watches], or Seiko SKX173 [Amazon]. Borealis Francis Drake (Tudor Black Bay homage) 300m $349 [BorealisWatch]. Other Borealis divers: Sea Diver 300m $200 (good Miyota value, Kobold homage) [BorealisWatch]. In the works: Sea Dragon $290 [BorealisWatch] and Scorpionfish [BorealisWatch]
Chronograph Divers: Citizen VO10-6771F ALTERNA Eco-Drive Chronograph [eBay]
Sporty Chronograph homages
(note: automatic chronograph is hard to find affordable)
Navitimers have the slide-rule bezel, which allows for metric to standard conversions, fuel consumption, air speed and distance calculations, etc. Tachymeter on “racer” watches is solely for speed.
Breitling Navitimer homages:
Quartz: Seiko SNA413 [Amazon], Casio Edifice EF-527 $87 [Amazon, 2, 3], Parnis $95 [ParnisWatch], Rotary Chronospeed Chronograph $100 [eBay1, eBay2]
Solar $200: Seiko [SSC009 black, SSC007 black-red, SSC013 white], Seiko SSC289 [Amazon rubber, eBay SS261 metal bracelet], more contemporary Citizen Nighthawk (GMT but no chrono) [Amazon], Citizen chrono $300 [BL5400-52A Silver/White, BL5403-03X Gold/Black] Citizen Skyhawk A-T [Amazon BL5400-52A Silver/White, Blue Angels World A-T, Other Promaster Sky eBay]
Rolex Daytona Paul Newman / Omega Speedmaster Professional homages
Quartz: Casio Edifice $60 [Amazon1, 2, 3], Seiko SSB Series $120 [Amazon SSB073, SSB033, SSB031, SSB025, SSB029, SSB037, SSB097, SSB095], Also Invicta Speedway (many models) [Amazon] ie Speedway 9211 [Amazon], Citizen AN8070-53E [eBay]
Automatic: Alpha – chronograph automatic Seagull mvmt $215 [Alpha], Russian Auto Sporty Chronographs: Seagull 1963 $300 [Amazon, eBay], Strela $600 or other 3133 models [eBay (best value), Julian Kampmann Poljot24 Russia] Note: 3 similar quality Strela brands: Strela, Poljot International, Sturmanskie. Make sure to get only Poljot 3133 movements (3017 redesign made by MakTime, faithful copy of swiss Valjoux 7734)
Summary: For Navitimer homage, I’d get the Citizen BL-5400 or Russian Poljot Chronograph “Blue Angels”. For Daytona homage, I’d get a Russian Poljot Chronograph “Classic” or Seiko Quartz 7a28 [eBay] or 7a38 [eBay] (hard to find).
Active Duty Military Watches
Note: ABC watch means Altimeter (altitude tracking), Barometer (predict rain), Compass. Atomic means its time is corrected by radio tower
Cheap Beater: Casio G-Shock DW-5600E $41 [Amazon] – digital/quartz
Most Iconic G-Shock: Casio G-Shock GW-5000 $320 solar [Amazon] (the modern version of the older DW-5000C)
Size/Some Features/Mudproof Combo: Casio G-Shock G-9300 “Mudman” $129 [Amazon or Yellow – Amazon] is more mud/dirt/dust resistant, big and mudproof like GX-56 King (not quite as big but easier to press buttons), compass, has moonphase (Rangeman doesn’t), No altimeter/barometer/sunrise-sunset/atomic
Feature Rich / Bang-ability: Casio G-Shock G-9400 “Rangeman” $180 [Amazon GW94001CR rubber strap, GW9400J-1JF more durable/expensive resin strap, GW9400BJ-1JF black] (new version of GW-9200 Riseman. Solar, ABC, temp sensor, auto light by turning wrist towards your face, but no mud-resist (can take mud but not operate buttons). Compared to Riseman, the Rangeman is larger/heavier, newer sensor/module, added compass, slightly less comfortable, and illuminated by LED (though people say LED is uneven and too bright vs EL)
Most Features: Suunto Core All Black $260 [Amazon], Alu (aluminum) Deep Black $280 [Amazon], Brushed Steel (Stainless Steel model with sapphire glass) $350 [Amazon]. All the features and most precise sensors (ABC, storm alarm, sunrise/sunset indicator). Quartz – battery lasts 1 year but only takes 2mins to swap and weather-seal yourself
Best: Casio G-Shock Rangeman $180 for lots of bang-ability or Suunto Core for higher sensor precision and less rugged/bulky. DON’T get Casio Pro Trek (new version of Casio Pathfinder): bigger screens but not as resistant to bumps and scratches (you can actually replace the bezel on G-shocks). Seiko (ie SBEB001) and Tissot may be working on ABCs.
Tissot PR 516 GL (old world sporty feel) $415 [Ebay] or newer Tissot Visodate $375 [Amazon, eBay] (albeit black has a white day/date). Other popular recommended models: Powermatic 80 [Amazon, eBay], PRC 200
Hamilton popular solid American brand and great value ETAs (however sometimes known for poor lume and strap/band quality and no anti-reflective coating) Note that they are on sale often. Classier models include Jazzmaster Viewmatic $500 [Amazon, eBay], Intra-Matic $600 (best value Bauhaus style) [Amazon, eBay], Thin-O-Matic $600 [Amazon, eBay]
Steinhart Marine $430 [Marine Chronometer II Roman, Marine Chronometer II Arabic, Marine Chronometer, Marine Chronometer Vintage] Super classy and great value for the quality (IWC Portuguese homage), only gripe is that they might be too classy for everyday watch
Seiko Spirit (SARB) $390 iconic green Alpinist SARB017 [Amazon], the classy SARB033 [Amazon, eBay] or SARB035 [Amazon], SARB065 Shinobu Ishigaki “Cocktail Time” [Amazon, eBay]. Don’t believe the extra $200 is worth it for the $570 SARB021 [Amazon, eBay] or SARB023 [Amazon, eBay], Secondarily: Orient Vintage Power Reserve $200 [Amazon] or Orient Star Classic $400 [Amazon]
Steinhart Triton 40 ATM $485 [SteinhartWatches]
Perpetual Watches: Superb beautiful watches at good prices (albeit Seagull movement). Currently sold out mid to late 2015 [Perpetual-Watch]. Models include: Regulator R-01 $170, Chronograph C-01 $380, Chronograph C-05 $500 (Patek Philippe 3970P homage)
Rolex Explorer homage: Smiths Everest $400 [Timefactors], Orient Chicane [Amazon] + explorer hands from firstname.lastname@example.org and add a better Oyster bracelet, Seiko SNKM77 [Amazon] (other models may work) + $50 worth of dagaz parts (dial and hands)
High-Level Classy Automatic $600+ (all ETA movements)
Precista PRS-20 $580 is a good value Panerai Radiomir homage [Timefactors]
Squale 50 ATMOS (500 m) Shiny and beautiful, coin edge bezel $830 [GnomonWatches]
Oris and Glycine $800+ both widely known to be great quality/resale value, but I don’t find their lower-end watches awe-inspiring. Oris uses Sellita movements (just as good as ETA), Oris Aquis Date $1k [Amazon] or Diver Date $1k [Amazon] (Diver Date nicer with wave dial and nicer hour markers). Glycine Stratoforte chronograph $1.2k [Glycine, eBay]
Steinhart Marine-Officer Bronze chronograph $900 [Steinhart]
GMT / World Time Watches (In Progress)
Citizen AT9010-52E [Amazon]
Halios unique divers made by a small Canadian company, beautiful but Miyota movement like Magrette, but I’d be more inclined to get a Halios, current models are Halios Delfin $745 at [Halios], or Halios Tropik SS $675 [Halios], order with metal bracelet
MKII [MKIIWatches] great but $800+ (and the Vantage or Kingston are no longer for sale)
Sinn ie 556 $1.1k [SinnWatches]
Prometheus [PrometheusWatch] (not sure of quality, and overpriced even with lower quality seagull/sellita movements, Baiji and CR1 models look good)
Seiko Prospex Marine Master Professional 300m Diver SBDX001 (MM300) the ultimate diver $1800, with a movement at in-house Swiss movements / Grand Seiko level. Might be too high profile to fit under dress shirts. [Amazon, eBay]
Junghans Max Bill Automatic (classic Bauhaus, but plexiglass, $850, $1800 for chronograph “Chronoscope”) [eBay]
Longines Column Wheel Chronograph L688 (inhouse) movement [eBay]
Conclusions & Favorites
After all the research, concluded: Watches aren’t investments because of scratches causing loss of value and high maintenance costs on expensive timepieces (ie $500 for a Rolex). For best quality to value, go for automatic, don’t spend much more than $600 for an ETA Swiss or much more than $300 on a non-Swiss movement (unless it’s a premium Seiko or a high quality watch with Miyota) because one could get a decent-condition gold watch on eBay or a used high-end brand for $600, ie Omega (both of these options will better hold their value). If you plan to have only one, choose a versatile style (or have two: one professional and one casual). Regarding homages, buy only from a quality company ie Steinhart (that looks a little different) instead of cheap Chinese copies that looks the same as the real thing.
For ultra-budget class @$80: SNK795 (modern) [black Amazon, white SNK789]
Budget classy @$200 include the Orient Vintage Power Reserve [Amazon] or a Perpetual Regulator [R-01 or R-05] (currently sold out).
For quality class @$400, Seiko SARB035 [Amazon, eBay] or SARB033 [Amazon, eBay], or Steinhart Marine [Marine Chronometer II Roman].
For budget divers @$200, a favorite tool watch is the classic Seiko SKX007 $140 [Amazon] then add Super Oyster bracelet $80 (see above for sellers).
For best Swiss ETA divers @$400, the Steinhart Oceans (Rolex submariner homages) are the best bet ie Steinhart Ocean 1 Black $400 [SteinhartWatches] with Ceramic. For one-of-a-kind with high finish quality, you’ll have to go pricier such as the Squale 50 ATMOS $830 [Squale].
Best Watch Winder: WOLF Viceroy (2.7) Single $235 [Amazon], or Triple $750 [Amazon]. Only buy the Wolf brand, as cheaper ones are worthless. However, I’d say these are an optional luxury, as the only benefit is to have multiple automatic watches but not having to worry about setting their time when you switch them up.
Best Brands for Watch Straps / Bands / Bracelets:
Nato vs Zulu: For straps / bands, recommend Nato type over Zulu, as Nato runs thinner, has a watch keeper strap, and thinner squared metal hoops instead of rounded. With its thick nature and more numerous hoops, Zulu looks more rugged than sporty.
Leather Strap Brands: Da Luca – highest quality leather (shell cordovan) but expensive $100+)
Nato / Zulu Strap Brands: [CheapestNatoStraps] (22 lug width)
Don’t get: Hadley Roma (doesn’t seem high quality)
Best Watch Spring Bar Tool for changing out bracelets / straps: Bergeon 6767-F Watch Spring Bar Tool (F-tool) $25 [Amazon], which is an F-tool is for metal bracelets. The Bergeon 6767-S (S-tool) [Amazon] is for leather and rubber straps (the F tool can too easy accidentally damage a leather strap because it is more fine). If you have watches with both bracelets and straps, you either need to purchase both tools or buy the other tip at $8-15. Bergeon (Swiss repair tools) is much better than the cheaper non-branded ones
Watch Buying Guide
Desirable Watch features:
– Movement quality – Watchphiles most recommend Automatic: no battery replacement required, seconds hand moves more smoothly (higher bpm – beats per minute), and holds value due to the craftsmanship and tradition of a complicated movement. Mechanical: Automatic (winded by wrist-movement) or Manual (winded manually) and charges last ~40 hours (recommended servicing every 5-10 years). Quartz: most accurate, powered by battery (lifetime ~2 years) and some self-recharge (hold ~6 months charge, lifetime ~10-20 years), ie Kinetic (Seiko) recharges with wrist movement but not recommended (battery weakens if let fully discharge), and Solar (Seiko Solar, Citizen Eco-Drive, Casio Tough Solar) recharges with light. Automatic movement brands – ETA or Valjoux (highest quality Swiss-made but watches $400+), Miyota (Japanese substitute but still great/reliable, watches $250+), Seagull (okay quality Chinese), followed by cheap unnamed Chinese movements. Some movements are made in-house, ie Seiko or top model Rolexes.
– Hacking is a movement feature that stops the seconds hand for better time setting
– Quality of the finish, Quality of [metal] bracelet. Bracelets usually worth more than a leather band/strap
– Sapphire Crystal glass (scratch resistant and prettier than Mineral), Seiko uses Hardlex which is decent
– Brand: Don’t buy a fashion-brand watch (ie Michael Kors, Kenneth Cole): usually quartz and overpriced for their contracted-out quality. Buy from a watch-maker for better quality/price and resale value.
Note: Take your time shopping as there are many styles and tastes change. For more “lifelike” pics, look them up on Google Images or Youtube. ~38mm size is more classic while 42mm+ is more sporty.
Common Metal Bracelet Types: (there is also Mesh)
Watches I’m Not Recommending
Poor Design: Meister like the Ambassador Mk iii (quartz, but stylish), Skagen, Uniformwares, Citizen JP2000 Aqualand (the protruding part is a depth sensor, iconic Citizen like Nighthawk/Ecozilla but don’t personally like digital/analog hybrid), Casio G-Shock Aviator GW-A1000-1A $420 (solar & analog but analog defeats the precision purpose of a G-Shock), Croton, Sturhling, Accurist (British version of Citizen), Tech4o traileader only 10m, Movado (expensive, mostly quartz, and don’t dig the “museum”-style), dislike the dark bezel Seiko styles – new 3rd gen 5 mini monster – SRP603K SRP605K SRP608K or Recraft series – weird colors except for the SNKN02, Rockx (RXW) look like great homages but the name is horrible!, Kadloo, Seiko SSC229 (sadly numbered markers), SSC223, SBDL013, Helson great new company $600 miyota and $900+ swiss but no unique styling except for bronze watches (no more sharkmaster 1000), Bernhardt Binnacle $270 [BernhardtWatches] (non-traditional diver watch, don’t like the design but good value for a Miyota movement)
Horrible Quality: Jaragar, Timex (ie Camper), Kienzle, Lucien Piccard, Lorus and Pulsar (both owned by Seiko, okay quality but Seiko is better), Ingersoll Houston (chronograph auto but mineral glass) ie IN2816WH / IN2816GWH / IN2816BK (unsure of quality), Rossling & Co. $170 quartz, Davosa $500 quartz, Rotary Aquaspeed quartz Omega Seamaster homage, Kadloo
Overly-Expensive and Poor Quality (ie very expensive and just quartz or bad finish quality): Nixon, Tag Heuer (quartz), Chase Durer ($500 quartz), Autodromo (quartz), G Gerlach ($300+ watches, cheapish seagull movement and the good styles are $400+ and extra $40 for bracelet), Invicta (not great quality but their divers are low priced: Invicta Diver (Omega Seamaster homage) $80-160 3044 Black 49mm, 8926 Black 40mm, 3045 Blue 44mm and Invicta Diver (Rolex Submariner homage): 8926OB, 9937, Ocean7 overpriced & bad customer service & misaligned bezels (and rather get Seiko Blancpain homages rather than $800 LM-5), Victorinox / Wenger / VSA (ie Victorinox Dive Master 500, quartz), Panerai (super expensive and not in-house movement), RXW?, Hager $600 miyota, Ebel Sportwave $500 quartz, Chenevard (not sure quality)
Pricey but still Good Quality: Breitling, Jean Marcel, Omega (many don’t have rotating bezel but the iconic ones are Speedmaster Professional and Bond Seamaster), Edox, Vulcain (ie Cricket), Orient Star Classic ($400 for Orient), Vollmer is a semi-expensive flieger ~$500, many people say Stowa is a good value with high finish but pricey $790 for a [flieger] (on smaller side, more contemporary/flashy than authentic/military Laco) and Damasko also expensive for a flieger ie DA36 $1125, Dievas watches (ie Vortex) $900+, Ollech & Wajs pilot or diver with ETA movement $450+ from [Chronotime to check models, to buy WestCoastTime, WestCoastTime or eBay] not great selection or good models sold out and a little too expensive for the lack of a strong name/quality but good price for ETA, Deep Blue ($450 for miyota, $1k ETA), Lew & Huey (L&H) ie Riccardo, Hamilton Khaki Officer and Khaki Pilot – little expensive for fliegers, Maranez – expensive for the movements (Seiko auto or Miyota) but they make Panerai homages such as the Bangla (Mille Metri homage), Armida divers some brass/bronze expensive for the movements ($350+ Seiko auto, $450+ miyota) Unfortunately the old A5 is discontinued (homage to the official Navy Seal watch by Kobold Watches, Kobold even more expensive), Olivier bronze expensive, Gruppo Gamma $350 Panerai homages (similar prices/mvmts as Armida ie Seiko and miyota auto), Zelos, Cobra de Calibre, Helberg, Ancon $600+ miyota, Kazimon $2k, Junkers Bauhaus 6060 (mineral glass, better to get real deal Junghans), Frederique Constant ($600 quartz), Doxa (1500t is $2k), Ball (ie Aviator or Cosc or Ceramic XV), Marathon GSAR (rather get seiko monster), Tissot PRC 200 (quartz) and Seastar 1000 (expensive), H2o Kalmar 2 ($1.1k), Stowa Prodiver and Seatime ($1k), Longines Legend Diver (LLD) $1.8k, Aegir CD1 or CD2 $1.3k, Frederique Constant Maxime Manufacture $2k, Baume Mercier Capeland Chrono $1.6k (but swiss chrono), Boschett (ie Cave Dweller $440, Legacy, Reef Ranger, Harpoon, Sellita movements), UTS 1000M, Poljot Okeah / Ozean, Poljot Journey Chronograph, Landeron (have a nice speedmaster professional homage but for $700), Rado Diastar, CWC (Cabot Watch Company) G10 is just quartz and automatic is $850+, Aramar Watches (decently priced beautiful Miyota divers @$330, have snowflake choices)
Super Expensive Brands: Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet (AP, ie Royal Oak, unfortunately can’t find an homage), Vacheron Constantin, (these three are closely followed by Jaeger LeCoultre, A. Lange & Sohne), Ulysses Nardin, IWC and A. Lange & Söhne are the expensive fliegers followed by Wempe and Tourby (~$1k), Richard Mille RM11 (skeleton watch, can’t find a decent quality homage online), Bremont (ie Supermarine), Tudor (ie Black Bay or Pelagos), Rolex (small/common/expensive but in-house movements and hold value very well), High quality micro-brands (Laurent Ferrier, F.P. Journe), Eterna (ie Kontiki), Anstead Oceanis $500 Miyota, RGM 300
Other Models I don’t prefer: Seiko Prospex Sumo ie SBDC001 $500 Great value for the quality, but don’t like the big lugs, Stealth / Black Ops / Ninja G-Shock: GD-350-1B $87 (better larger negative display than GW-7900B “Rescue” $100), Best Collectable G-Shock: GWF-1000 “Frogman” $580 bigger than “Rangeman” but less comfortable / expensive / not many add’l features, Simple / Tough / Cartoonishly Big G-Shock: GX-56 King $153, Seiko SRP353 (not chrono), Seiko solar chronographs (not enough good feedback on these) SSC087 / SSC001 / SSC141 blue, tiny hands – SNE327, Seiko Spirits (SBPX) – White: $225 SBPX045 SBPX021, Seiko Bullhead SCEB009 (don’t like top crown / quartz but good-looking Omega Speedmaster Professional homage), [Panzera Breuer 44] (bauhaus but miyota, would get ETA Hamilton Intra-Matic over it), Seiko SSC275 don’t like design, Mido Baroncelli ~$500, highly regarded brand but not well-known (due to its simplicity, would rather get an Orient Symphony), SNK and SNKL better than (SNKK71 black/white SNKK65 or classic SNK361 black/SNK355 white or models with different day/date color as dial like SNK793 / SNE093), Seiko Ananta, Breitling Seawolf
Unavailable: Irreantum Magellan (Doxa 5000t homage) $545 (currently sold out) [Irreantum], Sea-Gull M187s $120 [Ebay], Obris Morgan Branco $229 – was a great budget watch, Orient Sparta, Halios Holotype and Bluering and Stainless Steel 1000M (Puck), Artego 300M or 500M, Seiko Premier with 6R20 or 6R15 movement (expensive $1.3k), Seiko Frankenmonster, Seafarer [BorealisWatch], Uhren von Uhr pilot watches (and 222 / 221)