Best Headphone, Soundcard, Speakers for PC Gaming

Best Headphone Systems for PC Gaming

Schiit and Hifiman HE-400
For the best sound experience while gaming, a DAC and amp provide a huge level above a lone soundcard. It is possible to add better positionality in gaming through Dolby surround sound, achieved with a “Dolby Digital 5.1 Headphone” soundcard (Dolby is better than CMSS-3D from Titanium cards for music/game immersiveness, but is slightly behind in fps gaming ie positioning where your enemy is). For superior quality sound AND Dolby, a cheap internal soundcard such as the Asus Xonar DG/DGX can passthrough Dolby to a high-quality DAC (external soundcard) that will encode/process the sound (not the cheap soundcard), then to an Amp to power headphones (analog speakers don’t need amp). Note: headphones are good in that you can get amazing fidelity and surround sound within low cost/space, but they cannot best the richness and listening pleasure of speakers (listed below headphones).

See Also: Best IEM (In-Ear Headphones) and Portable Headphones

[Super Budget, Digital Soundcard Only ~$70]
[internal soundcard] Asus Xonar DG $15 [PCI Version, don’t recommend DGX/PCI-X for this setup because it currently has front panel headphone jack power issues currently Amazon] –> –>
[headphone] Panasonic RP-HTF600-S [Amazon] + Beyerdynamic Velour Pads [Amazon] OR to step it up to the next level, MrSpeakers Mad Dog Pro $450 [Amazon]

[Best Value Audiophile Setup, (Soundcard optional for Dolby)+DAC+Amp ~$600]
Either (1) USB connect PC directly to DAC or (2) Optical toslink connect internal soundcard to DAC (to achieve Dolby surround), need to have a Dolby soundcard

(1) USB:
–> USB –>
[DAC + Amp] Either JDSLABS Objective2 + ODAC Combo Headphone amp By NwAvGuy model $290 [Amazon] OR Schiit Modi 2 $100 [Amazon, Schiit] + Schiit Magni 2 $100 [Amazon, Schiit]
–> –> [headphone]

(2) Optical Toslink:
[internal soundcard] Asus Xonar DG $15 [PCI Version Amazon] or DGX $40 [PCI-X Version Amazon]
–> optical toslink –>
[DAC] Modi 2 Uber $150 (Modi is USB only, Modi Uber is USB and optical toslink) [Amazon, Schiit]
–> RCA –>
[amp] Schiit Magni 2 $100 [Amazon, Schiit]
–> –> [headphone]

[headphone choices] (1) MrSpeakers Mad Dog Pro $450 [Amazon]
(2) Hifiman HE-400 $300 [Amazon] (add velour pads from
(3) Hifiman HE-400i $500 (new version gets rid of HE-400s distorted midrange) [Amazon] (no need to get velour pads)

[Audiophile Setup, Expensive DAC and Tube Amp ~$1200]
[internal soundcard] Asus Xonar DG $15 [PCI Version Amazon] or DGX $40 [PCI-X Version Amazon]
–> optical –>
[DAC] Schiit Bifrost $350 [Amazon or Schiit] -> (RCA Cables)
–> RCA –>
[amp] Schiit Lyr 2 $500 (Tube/SS Hybrid) [Amazon or Schiit]
–> –>
[headphone] Hifiman HE-400i $500 [Amazon]

**For replacement tubes that are better than stock go for Tesla E88CC Gold $50/pair, Amperex USN-CEP 6DJ8, Amperex Bugle Boy D Getter 6DJ8, or Matsushita [TubeMonger], (also try to get matched pairs). To save $150 on Amp but little less quality/”tube fun” substitute the Lyr for Asgard 2 $290 (Solid State) [Amazon, Schiit]. To save $300 on DAC, instead of the Bifrost get the ODAC $150 from [Audio Poutine]

The audiophile setups are better than Fiio Systems (D3 to E7, E9, or E11), Little Dot mkii or chinese tubes like Qinpu Q-2, Monoprice ODAC + amp, Schiit Vali is bad (downsides of tube amps but none of the upsides)
Ohm rating on your headphones should be 10 times or more higher than the output impedance (Ohm) of the sound card.

Hook up: To use an Asus Xonar DG/DGX with a DAC, enable Dolby Headphone and then enable SPDIFF (be sure EAX/GX disabled). Instead of using Asus drivers for DG/DGX, use the Unified Xonar. Also, if you’re experiencing errors, disable the onboard audio in the BIOS (deleting on-board sound’s audio driver/software may help also). Cables – Depending on the DAC, it will connect to the PC via USB or SPDIFF (optical) or both. USB won’t be able to connect to an internal soundcard for Dolby surround sound (but still great for non-gaming). Optical/spdiff is better quality but USB input is nice for laptop usage. To connect DAC to Amp, you will need a simple 2x RCA -> 2x RCA cable. (monoprice cables off amazon are good quality, inexpensive $6-$20, varying lengths but more choice at

Best Cheap Gaming Microphone (Gaming Mic) For Skype or TeamSpeak or Vent, Only ~$5: [dealextreme link] (unbranded). I know that one is good, but alternative amazon links for clip on mics that look the same: [Amazon 5x Pack Neewer Brand, Amazon 3x Pack Neewer Brand, Amazon 1 Pack HDE Brand]

Best Podcasting / Streaming Microphone:
Best Cheap USB mic: Samson C01U $80-$130 [Amazon mic only, Amazon with mic stand package, Amazon portable package with case]
Best “Professional” USB mic: Blue Microphones Yeti $150 [Amazon]
Blue Microphones Yeti Pro $220 (can also be XLR) [Amazon] If it does not sound well, go to control panel –> Sound>Recording>Yeti. Click ‘Properties’. Find the advanced tab, and make´╗┐ sure it’s on 2 channel,16bit, 48000Hz (DVD quality)

Best Speaker System

For speakers, you can use the DAC, with its set of L/R RCA outputs, to output to any system (directly to a 2.0 system, receiver, preamp, amp, etc). A good 2.0 or 2.1 system (2 speakers, subwoofer optional) is great, even for imaging, immersion, and surround. A quality 2.0 speaker system is always better than a cheap 5 or 7 speaker system.

[Powered Speakers] (All-In-One Solution without big bass)
Value 5.1: (Need cheap receiver, need to research) Monoprice 8247 Surround System $62+$24 shipping [Monoprice] (CNET review)
Value 2.0: Swan D1080 IV $180 [Audio Insider] (these are more the level of high-level computer speakers)
Great 2.0: Swan M200mkiii $420 [Audio Insider] (these are more the level of studio monitors)
The 2.0 choices are better if you aren’t a basshead or if your headphones cover your bass/gaming needs. The lack of sub/bass means they’re great for most types of music, but a little lacking in “fun” for movies/gaming (albeit still good).

[Receiver + Passive Speakers + Bass] Better quality sound for cheaper price, and better for mixing and matching components (ie add Bass)
Best Value Cheap: Pioneer SP-BS22-LR (substitute: Micca MB42), $150 stereo amp such as Pyle Home PVA2 or Onkyo CR-325 Mini Integrated AMP
Best Value Mid-Range (this setup is better than M200mkiii above): Sonic T-amp $40 [Amazon], Yamaha NS-6490 $128 [Amazon], HSU STF-2 Subwoofer $339 [HSU] – substitute: Outlaw Audio M8 $250 [Outlaw Audio] or BIC America F12 $182 [Amazon]

Best Value High-Range: Receiver – Denon AVR 2313 [Amazon], SUB – Better quality SVS PB12-NSD $770 [SVSound] or better value Rythmik LV12R $600 [Rythmik Audio] (new version of FV120)

Absolute Best: SUB: SVS Ultra (beats any sub at any price) $2k [SVSound]

Don’t get: Dayton B652 – horrible, Sony SS-B1000 (these are best selling bookshelf speaker on Amazon, but just decent), AudioEngines A5 or A2 or M-Audios

The Best Headphones – In-Depth Explanation

Note: Try to get refurbished or open box headphones for a good discount (especially at Amazon or B Stock). Also, headphones are good in that you can get amazing fidelity for a low cost, but the richness and sheer listening pleasure of speakers cannot be bested by a headphone. I left out the $50-$100 pricepoint due to not being great value.

Best Headphone Under $1k: Hifiman HE-400 $400 [Amazon] (Open Air) Unrivalled in its price range. Add Velour Pads and better tubes.

Closed Headphones – Better Isolation/Bass
Best Closed Headphones: MrSpeakers Mad Dog Pro $450 [MrSpeakers] (better value than either Mad Dogs or Alpha Dog), better than both the Denon D2000 and Denon D5000
Secondary: Denon D2000 $290 [Amazon] – It’s linear/neutral headphone with sub-bass capability unmatched by others in its class. An excellent headphone in all ways. (Denon D5000 $433-$460 [Amazon] are better than D2000, but are getting too expensive b/c discontinued, more fun than D7000 even though those are more accurate, bassy, Look for refurb @$300.
Pure Bassheads: Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 80ohm $180 [Amazon] [Amazon-250ohm] (Don’t think this is worth it unless you’re a basshead and HAVE to have huge bass + closed ear, I think DT770 is too much bass IMO I’d get DT990 Pro for great details and bass is more refined but still big, or just cheaper headphone over this like Fischer FA003, soundstage is lacking on the Pro models due to clamps)
Best Cheap Headphones (Best Value Ever): Panasonic RP-HTF600-S $30 [Amazon] + Beyerdynamic Velour Pads [Amazon] I’d get these over the HD650 $490, Secondary: Incipio Forte F38 $30 [Amazon] (less bass and smaller soundstage but better mids/treble/clarity than HTF600, more closed than RP-HTF600-S, “not as fun”, this is a rebranded Fischer FA004 like the Brainwavz HM3 $68, some say better than the ~$120 FA003/HM5, change out for Shure SRH750DJ pads [Amazon])
Best Dirt Cheap, Clip-On/Portable: Koss KSC75 $15 [Amazon] (a great option for exercising headphones, sound better on a headband ie Parts-express headband or Portapro headband if you don’t mind more clampage), Secondary: Coby CV185 ($10)

Note: Don’t get Bose or Dre Beats (both VERY overpriced for their level of sound quality). Although the Bose has some of the best noise cancellation, with noise cancellation you lose lots of sound quality and people complain they get headaches from the noise cancelling high pitched “whine” (and it uses up batteries within the headphone).
Best Isolating Noise Cancellation Headphones: Instead of noise cancellation headphones for better noise isolation, I’d get sound isolating earbuds (IEMs (In-Ear Headphones)), but if you must get Noise Cancellation headphones get the Audio Technica ATH-ANC7 $120 Amazon, Secondarily: Sennheiser HD25-1-II (Shure SRH840 $180 are good but not portable). While better, I don’t think the sound quality of the ATH-ANC9 $219 or Bose QC15 $300 warrant the additional cost unless you NEED noise cancellation and want the “best” of them. I wouldn’t get the budget Bose (ie Quiet Comfort 3) which sound sloppy, over the ANC7.

Open-Air – Bigger Soundstage, Better sound fidelity, Leaks a little sound outside
Best Quality Open-Air for Immersive Gaming, Still great at Non-Gaming: Hifiman HE-400i $500 (new version gets rid of HE-400s distorted midrange) [Amazon] (no need to get velour pads)
OR to save some money:
Hifiman HE-400 $300 [Amazon] (add velour pads from

Secondary: Beyerdynamic DT990 Premium $245-$330 [Amazon] is bright and does bass wonderfully. Con: Need a good tube amp and a warm source to smooth its bright treble (can be fatiguing so if you’re worried about its brightness, consider the HD650)
Sennheiser HD650 $490 [Amazon] Also a bassy, “smoother” headphone, warm (has better mids than the DT990, more analytical but less controlled bass – more muddy). Some people say HD600 sounds tiny bit better but less bass. [I’d get the Panasonic RP-HTF600-S $30 + Beyerdynamic Pads over this]
Better at Competitive than DT990/HD650 but Worse at Immersive (more analytical, less bass, shorter soundstage): AKG Q701 $240 [Amazon] (great at competitive, good at immersive gaming)
Best Competitive FPS Gaming Value and Quality: Audio Technica ATH-AD700 $100 [Amazon] – great headphones, but analytical, no bass = much less “immersive” gaming [I’d get Panasonic HTF600 over this)
Bassheads: DT990 Pro $172 (250ohm only) [Amazon] is a superb value, but you must be a basshead (more bass than even DT990 Premium but not as controlled, less airy/bright), so the Pro is very immersive but worse competitively and less comfortable (harder clamp down for the bass)

Source: Head-Fi Forum research and MalVeauX, Mad Lust Envy Guide to Headphones, Shootout Portable Headphones

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